Since 2000 I'm on a quest for the bordermarkers in the Pyrenees. My project is to find & photograph & document them all. And to connect them with a long-distance trail: the Grande Randonnée Pyrénéenne des Bornes Frontières
About me: I was born in 1957, work as a psychiatrice nurse and live in Eindhoven in the Netherlands..
Many congratulations for Sébastien Marc who completed today his quest to do all esfr-bordermarkers. Together with cousin & bm-buddy Jérôme Loubière he climbed to Port de Barroude for bm322.
It took him 29 years from his very first bm332 at Port de Vénasque up to this last one where the obligatory bottle of champagne was uncorkened with much pleasure.
He writes on Strava about his quest: “Lots of happiness, excitement, discovery, kilometers in the mountains… believe in your dreams.” And let’s not forget: Sébastien already made himself a legend by discovering the lost bm271bis. He also introduced an Excel-sheet to keep count of your bordermarkers, very helpful. We hope you won’t forget the Pyrenees.
With Sébastien finishing, there are 3 current ‘competitors’ left: Jérôme Loubière, Didier Roux and Pierre Gallart. We wish them a lot of luck for 2026.
Carlos and Conchita Roca have succeeded today in their goal: visiting all esfr-bordermarkers.
The one of today – 330bis – was the last of a 4-weeks sprint to finish their project. From Bielsa / Aragnouet (325-329 and 322) to Refuge Wallon (313 & 314) to Lescun (272) to Col de Somport (296) to Le Plan (329 & 330) and finally to Benasque for no. 330bis.
Those were not the easy ones, each requiring one day of strenuous hiking and climbing. As usual with the ‘chasseurs des bornes’, they kept the difficult ones for the end. Bm330bis was done together with their son David and his ‘novia’ Noella. Also Pierre Gallart joined them and he took this photo:
Carlos and Conchita are now very happy and also relieved to have fulfilled their quest. It took them 10 years to do. And though as pensionados still in good health and shape, the years take their toll anyway. Congratulations for both of you. Now you can – as Carlos told me – retire for the second time and return to the status of ‘normal tourists’.
By the way, they are not the only ones to finish this year: Sébastien Marc has only 1 or 2 bordermarkers to go and Pierre Gallart about 17 markers. And than there is Didier Roux who hopes to finish in october with his last three markers. See this blog-post.
I was very surprised by the message yesterday of Sébastien Marc that he had found bm271bis on the Añelarra-ridge near La Pierre Saint-Martin. I searched for bm271bis for four times – first time in 2011 – and I wasn’t the only one who couldn’t find it.
Bm271bis has been missing for at least decades. On older French maps it was indicated as ‘détruite’ = destroyed and situated on the map at about 310m from bm271 which could fit with the 360m distance as described by the Treaty.
But Sébastien found it much closer to bm271, approximately at 200 meters to the E. And I fully understand that he was thrilled to find it. The bordercross is in excellent shape and resembles the 271-cross.
But where is it exactly? Let’s first show this video-frame (also from Sébastien) taken from Pic d’Anie and looking SW. We see two elongated summits. On the right is bm271 (a bit down the ridge at the Spanish side), on the left side is the summit of Pico de Añelarra.
The coordinates of bm271bis are 42.939467, -0.731739 (based on Sébastien’s gps-track and coordinates). Description of Sébastien: “from 271 go back E and after the ‘pass’ between the two elongated summits, you start climbing the summit of Pico de Añelarra. After ± 45m there is very small pass or lowering of the ridge. Bm271bis is located just after it on the French side on a large rock, less than a few meters from the ridge.
In one week, I will travel to the Pyrenees and I will try to squeeze bm271bis into my schedule. Thank you, Sébastien, for sharing your discovery so quickly. You have only four bordermarkers to go and this discovery is real treat to your project.
I’m proud and also a bit ashamed of my last update. It took me almost a year to update my website with the trips I did last year in august and september. My excuse: I am retired ergo busy. The update-page is a good starting point for checking this update.
Within two weeks I will be back in the Pyrenees. The main target is to assist Carlos and Conchta – my cheerful friends from Barcelona – with their last 10 bordermarkers. They are not the only ones finishing this year. Sebastien Marc has only 6 markers left and there is also Didier Roux who might complete his quest in october with his last 3 bordermarkers. See also this blog-post.
I have done all bordermarkers at least twice and half of them more than 2x. A sense of ‘enough is enough’ is seeping more and more in my mind. I long for other adventures like long-distance paths in Britain and bicycle backpacking trips to the horizon. There are still some targets for spring next year (sea my to-do-list) but overall there is the desire of moving on.
But will the Pyrenees let me part that easily? After all, we loved each other for many years, the Pyrenees meant so much for me. We will see, time will tell.
Well, it’s of course no competition but the drive to find all esfr-bordermarkers is something most of us share.
A list of those who did them all, can be found on this webpage.
Some have their own list of bordermarkers but the one I use is explained on this page and a excel-checklist to use is on this page
But who are still in the race at this moment? Let’s list them.
Didier Roux
I wrote about his quest in this post and he expected to complete in 2024. However he failed to reach bm424-425 and still couldn’t find bm85bis. He will try again in october 2025.
Carlos and Conchita Roca
My friends from Barcelona work steadily on their progress. They hope to finish in 2025 and have still 14 markers to do. These are not the easy ones and that is what I see a lot: the most difficult markers are left for the final stage.
Sébastien Marc (see this post)
This very sporty young man has also 14 bordermarkers tp do (mostly in the central Pyrenees) and he expects to finish in 2025.
Pierre Gallart
His accidental meeting with Carlos and Conchita Roca in 2024 brought this extraordinary man to my attention. At the same time Jerôme Loubière informed me about him.
He is extraordinary because he is the first person – as far as I know – who tried to do all bordermarkers in one go! He undertook that project in 2022 in 74 days and describes it on his website
And there is this short article and you can listen to an interview (in Spanish).
He did photograph ± 95% of the bordermarkers which leaves 40 markers still to do. Missing those 40 markers had various reasons, including an attack from a wild boar (!). He intends to write a book about his adventure and publish it in 2025. Meanwhile he is working on doing the missed bordermarkers (I guess).
Jerome Loubière (see this post)
This is the cousin of Sébastien Marc and he reported me that he did 68€% of all markers which would mean 228 markers still to do, a lot of them in the Basque country. But he already sailed to bm602.
I wish them all good luck in 2025 and remember: it’s not a competition, it’s all about the joy of exploring the Pyrenees and the concern for bordermarkers as cultural-historical monuments.
We are talking about the esfr-borderline between bm407 and 409, not far from Bagnères-de-Luchon. The dispute has been described in full detail on earlier webpages and blogposts. A starting point could be this post from 2018 and this video:
The different views on the borderline between bm407 and 409 : a summary
The borderline was described precisely in the Bayonne-treaty of 1862-1863. But let’s not forget that the borderline between the communities of Fos and Bausen has a much longer history. Joël Molinier describes the history in this article (in French, this is the English version).
But back to the Bayonne-treaty. Let’s show that borderline on a map (the blue part of the borderline is not contested).
But in the 1960-ies, the tresspassing of French territory by a Spanish logging company led to a new discussion. Central question: where is the ‘Ruisseau du Terme’? Is it the northern stream or the southern one? In the end a new borderline was agreed upon in the binational ‘Commission des Pyrénées’ and 4 intermediate markers were installed.
Since this was agreed upon bilaterally in their meeting of 1970, this borderline should be considered as the official current borderline. But in fact – as far as we know – nothing changed in the field and in the use of the terrain by French locals. On a map this 1970-version:
However: in 2015, as a result of a joint digital measurement of the esfr-borderline, a sort of diplomatic solution was proposed in the Commission Mixte d’Abornement (CMA) of 2015. Resulting in a borderline which has lost any connection with the Treaty-text. Don’t forget: it’s still a proposal, lacking an official binational approval.
But surprisingly, this new borderline is already implemented on the maps.
Who is involved in this dispute?
From our side it’s Michel Molia, myself and since 2023 Joël Molinier (a retired professor on European Law). We think that the borderline of 1862 is very well described in the treaty-text and leaves little to zero room for confusion. And thus we believe that the 1970-change and the proposal of 2015 violate the treaty, both leading to territorial losses for France.
The originator of the 2015-proposal seems to be Pierre Vergez of the French CNIG/ING who was very defensive to us about his solution. He waved with convincing Spanish counter-arguments but never disclosed them. It has been silent from his side since a few years and in these proceedings, we read that he retired in 2023. And then there is Jean-Paul Laborie – the border-commissioner in this area – who is following the official point of view from a sideline.
On a local administrative level, the mayors of Bausen (Spain) and Fos (France) have an interest in the dispute. Especially the municipality of Fos should be concerned: they are in danger of losing ± 8 hectares of their territory.
2023: The dispute presented for arbitration on a European level
This is an initiative of Joël Molinier. Within the European Union there is the institution ‘European Regional Development Fund’ which has a department (B-solutions) which aims at “solving cross-border obstacles”.
The matter has been presented to B-Solutions in june 2023 with the approval of the mayor of Fos. Further communication will be to the mayor and so far there has been no news.
2024: The “Terrain indivis de Bidaubus” better assessed
There is circumstantial evidence for our point of view in the description of the adjacent ‘terrain indivis de Bidaoubous’. It’s a strip of Spanish territory “more or less parallel to the Ruisseau du Terme” according to the treay. It kept a common right of use for both Bausen and Fos in the 1862-treaty.
Its southern limit – including 4 engraved crosses A to D on ‘Mails’ (rocky outcrops) – was approximately estimated on the following map. The toponyms of the ‘Mails’ cannot be found back on any map. Thus the intermediate distances and natural characteristics of the terrain were used to determine the supposed spots of crosses A to D. However, none of these crosses have been found back so far.
And to be honest, this estimated version is not that parallel to the Ruisseau du Terme.
But Joël Molinier found in 2024 in 19th-century Fos-council proceedings a new clue. The shepherds of Fos complained in 1866 that they could’t reach the ridge at the level of cross B anymore, the versant being too steep there. The conclusion is that the lower cross C cannot be located at the descending hillridge. Because in that case the shepherds could still get to the ridge and up to cross B without crossing the southern ‘Terrain Indivis’-limit.
But another ‘Mail’ was found on the maps and Google Earth which fits in mentioned intermediate distances.
That led to a map in which the ‘Terrain Indivis’ is definitely more parallel to the Ruisseau de Terme than in the previous estimation. Needless to say that in a more northern interpretation of the Ruisseau du Terme, the descripton of this adjacent strip being parallel to the Ruisseau, does not fit anymore.
2024: The ‘Croix de Malfrenor’ still not found
This double-branched cross was probably shown in 1959 to the border-commissioners Sermet and Alija. In a cadastral map of the 19th century it is positioned at the Ruisseau du Terme. There have been various fruitless expeditions (Michel Molia, Corinne Gourgeonnet and me) to find this cross. The significance in this discussion is however limited because the cross is not mentioned in the Treaty.
2024: Still to do
We’d love to find back the Bidaubus-crosses A to D. The presumed sites of crosses B, C and D have already been visited with no results so far. However: the presumed site of cross C has changed and that requires a new trip.
I already made a sketch of the best route if we study the maps.
I also wonder if we can find back the remains of the original bm408, Sermet records that they were still there in the 1950-ies when a new bm408 was built. It would confirm that the new bm408 is indeed at the original position, like bm407 where the original 1862-bm is still present.
And the Croix de Malfrenor is intriguing, it must be still there.
Reasons enough to go back to that beautiful and mysterious corner of the Pyrenees and wander around to find new clues. For a part to defend our claim that the 1970- and 2015-versions are wrong. And for a larger part for the sheer fun of it.
about Didier Roux (age 56 years, Bagnères-de-Luchon) and his wanderings around Coustouges to find the bordermarkers as part of his project to visit all esfr-bordermarkers. Indeed not an easy task over there.
We got into contact and he wrote me how it all began in 2018. After purchasing all IGN-maps, he started with only maps and compass to guide him. He thinks that using a gps diminishes the charm of searching the markers, he is not the only one of that opinion. Nevertheless, he used the websites of Robert Darrieumerlou and Alain Gillodes to help him.
There have been difficult bordermarkers to find, especially around Coustouges but also near Col de Banyuls. Walking alone can be risky as he experienced in 2023 when – trying to get to bm330bis – jumped on a large rock which started to tumble and he ended up caught between the rocks. He badly wounded his head and wrist. He managed to retreat to a cabane where first aid was provided by a doctor on a walking trip. His full walking equipment can be seen on this picture:
He hopes to finish in 2024, there are 22 bordermarkers still to do, mainly in the high mountains. These are the ones still missing:
Pyrénées Atlantiques: 85bis
Hautes Pyrénées: 326.327.328.329.330.330 bis
Haute Garonne: 408,408 I,40 8II,40 8III and 408 IV
Ariège: 424 and 425
Pyrénées Orientales: 432, 433, 434, 435, 436, 437, 437 I and 438
And Didier has his also his own logo he likes to show.
We wish him all the best with his last bordermarkers and hope that there will be some way of publication of his pictures.
Once completed all bordermarkers, he will be added to the honorary list of those who did them all.
It has been once again challenging and interesting trips in april and september 2023. Among others: with Corinne Gourgeonnet searching for the Croix de Malafrenor and the Bidaubus-crosses, 3-days of backpacking in the increasingly dry Eastern Pyrenees and with Carlos & Conchita Roca their first wild camping experience. Also digesting some sad news: my beloved old-fashioned-for-ever Hôtel d’Annécy in Lourdes – so much part of my Lourdes-vibe – has closed in autumn 2023.
Read, watch and enjoy. In september 2024 I will return to the Pyrenees.
Jean Marc Dumont was a new and promising star in our field and now he has already reached his zenith: on 4 september he did his very last bordermarker: bm602 (with a kayak). And he did them all astonishingly fast: in 3 years!
“The sunglasses to hide a little teardrop” – JMD
I already introduced Jean Marc (aka Marko) in the previous post and though he expected to finish in 2024, he apparently – like a sprinter – accelerated in sight of the finish.
How does Jean Marc feel about it? Well, he wrote me that he expected to feel proud but it was rather a feeling of sadness, now it’s all over: ‘quand c’est fini, c’est fini’. But he will certainly come back to the Pyrenees, not forgetting the bordermarkers. I liked very much his own certificate:
And now we can add him to the honoray list of all the brave men and women who did them all:
Javier and María-Jesús Sancho-Esnaola (estimation: 2010)
Charles and Josette Darrieu (estimation: 2010)
Jacques Koleck (2014)
Myself (first round 2014, second round 2022)
Michel Molia (2018)
Alain Gillodes (june 2021)
Corinne Gourgeonnet (september 2021)
Jean Marc Dumont (september 2023)
Thank you, Jean Marc, for sharing your adventures, all the best for the future and who knows: someday we might come across each other, somewhere ….. at the border.
A tip from Corinne Gourgeonnet: Jean Marc Dumont, a young man of 64 who is also aspiring to do all esfr-markers. He once started as a co-walker along the bordermarkers and now continues on his own with impressive trips on his MTB or by foot.
As a former air traffic controller, he retired at an early age (the ultimate dream of every Frenchman, so it seems) and never regretted that a single moment.
Now he has covered 74% of all esfr-bm’s (using the “parfait” excel-sheet on this page) and he expects to finish next year. That implies that he can well be the first to complete the esfr-bordermarkers after Corinne in 2021 and before Carlos & Conchita Roca, Sébastien Marc and Jérôme Loubière.
So far, only bm425 has given serious problems, getting in rough terrain and in fact in danger.
Special notice: he has his own mini-camper for his bm-outings: the MarKomobile which made me instantaneously jealous.
No blog, no website but you can still follow his adventures and progress on Strava. Good luck Jean Marc and let us know when you are approaching the finish.
Didier Roux
Carlos and Conchita Roca
Sébastien Marc (see 
Pierre Gallart
Jerome Loubière (see 
